Beneath a coat of black spray paint was its original Fjord Green finish. More importantly, the car still retained its matching-numbers Super engine, original transmission, and factory-stamped body panels. This site documents the restoration — the discoveries, decisions, mistakes, and gradual reassembly — alongside a growing library of researched, sourced 356A guides.
The headlight wiring is cut and brittle. If the harness comes out during bare-shell work anyway, a new 6-volt harness with modern insulation and improved grounding is probably the honest answer. Decision pending — reasoning documented either way.
Cavity wax protecting the door seams is exactly right for longevity — and exactly wrong for paint adhesion. Current work: strip hardware, remove wax where paint must go, keep protection inside seams where it belongs.
What looked like a body-geometry problem turned out to be dirty, bound hardware. Disassemble, clean, reassemble loose, adjust, tighten progressively — the fit came back. A reusable rule for every panel on the car.
Removing the cabin tar boards revealed very little hidden rust — one area tied to a previous cut needs a patch. On a car this age, that's a gift. Floor pans replaced; front luggage compartment metal prepped for protective coating.
Every job on this car generates a researched reference guide: forum consensus and book sources consolidated, then verified in the shop. Organized by system and by task.
Floor pans, sills, tar boards, panel fit, corrosion protection
The matching-numbers Super engine: assessment, fuel, ignition
Full brake rebuild, bushings, sway bars, steering
Harness decision, grounding, hidden reliability upgrades
Original appearance vs. unsprung weight. The math, the date codes, and where we're leaning.
OpenFour directions explored — from strict factory beige leatherette to cordovan with Speedster seats.
OpenWhat survives under the black spray paint decides it. Fjord Green either way.
Build updates and one well-researched 356 topic every two weeks. No noise.